AI's Rapid Rise in Perfumery: Custom Scents in 48 Hours, But at What Cost?

Osmo, a fragrance tech startup based in a cutting-edge laboratory on the Manhattan waterfront, is pioneering the use of artificial olfactory intelligence to revolutionize perfume creation. Traditionally, making a perfume is a time-consuming process involving extensive formulation trials, compounding, and fine-tuning over weeks or months. Raw materials, often derived from natural sources, require years of cultivation, and regulatory reviews, packaging, and testing add to the overall timeline, making the transition from concept to shelf a lengthy endeavor. Osmo offers a radical departure from this traditional approach, promising a 48-hour turnaround from a client's initial prompt to a custom perfume sample. This rapid process is achieved through advanced AI technologies that can digitize and analyze odor molecules, enabling quick and efficient fragrance formulation. During a scent conference, the "digitized plum" created by Osmo was scrutinized by perfumers, who noted its unusual characteristics—medicinal and overly clean, lacking the complexity of natural scents. While AI's ability to speed up the perfumery process is undeniable, the broader implications of this technology are still under debate. Major fragrance conglomerates such as DSM-Firmenich, Givaudan, IFF, and Symrise have already integrated AI into their workflows, using it to help perfumers refine formulas and address regulatory and stability issues. Frank Voelkl, a principal perfumer at DSM-Firmenich, explains that AI allows him to focus more on the creative aspects of perfumery, managing the technical details more efficiently. However, the next generation of perfumers, particularly those from Gen Z, view AI as an integral part of their toolkit, using it for routine tasks and creative guidance. This shift raises questions about the future of craftsmanship in perfumery. Pierre Vouard, a professor at FIT, notes that hands-on compounding skills may become obsolete, but he also sees the potential for greater access to beauty through reduced costs and faster creation times. Michael Nordstrand, a perfumer, voices concerns about the de-professionalization of the industry, citing that some AI-based fragrance companies target consumers who lack the expertise to assess the quality of scents. Transparency is another critical issue. While Osmo highlights the work of its head perfumer, Christophe Laudamiel, it remains tight-lipped about the specifics of its AI models and the metrics used. This lack of transparency extends to other areas of the beauty industry, where unauthorized deepfake AI videos are being used to simulate founder messages and create misleading promotional content. Fragrance consultant LC James feels that this practice is patronizing and obfuscates the labor and environmental costs associated with AI-driven perfume production. The environmental impact of AI in perfumery is also a point of contention. Osmo's founder, Alex Wiltschko, claims that the energy consumption of their graph neural networks is minimal, requiring less than an hour to train. However, the company does not track or disclose this energy use, leaving room for skepticism. The rapid increase in the number of new perfume launches—from under 400 in 1995 to over 3,000 in 2023—underscores the potential for AI to drive exponential growth in the industry. Wiltschko envisions millions of fragrances being created, arguing that new tools can enhance beauty and accessibility. However, the speed and ease of AI also risk detaching the industry from the natural, hands-on processes that define traditional perfumery. Natural materials like orris root and sandalwood require years of cultivation and aging, and the physical blending and refinement of these ingredients are crucial steps in creating unique and high-quality fragrances. Retailers like Stéle, co-owned by Matt Belanger and Jake Levy, often encounter brands that claim to be perfumer-led but rely heavily on AI to mimic existing work. Belanger emphasizes that the time, courage, and decision-making involved in traditional perfumery cannot be replicated by a button-push. The integration of AI in perfumery presents a complex scenario where technological advancement meets ethical and environmental concerns. If the industry does not foster transparency and responsible practices, the potential benefits of AI could be overshadowed by the degradation of craftsmanship and misleading consumer experiences. As perfumer Jake Levy warns, “We were so busy thinking about whether we could, no one stopped to ask if we should.” This sentiment echoes the broader debate swirling around the adoption of AI in various creative fields, highlighting the need for careful consideration and regulation. Industry insiders are divided on whether AI represents a positive disruption or a threat to the soul of perfumery. While some see it as a powerful tool that can democratize fragrance creation and reduce costs, others fear it may erode the artistry and integrity of the craft. As AI continues to infiltrate the fragrance industry, the balance between innovation and tradition will be a key focus for both creators and consumers.